French Terry vs Fleece Hoodies: The Technical Fabrication Manual
Choosing the wrong fabric is the fastest way to kill a hoodie brand. I’ve seen founders order 500 units of "summer" French Terry for a winter drop and lose their entire investment because the "vibe" didn't match the season.
In Sialkot, we see these fabrics as engineered structures, not just "soft clothes." I’m Khan, and I’m going to show you the factory-floor technicals of French Terry and Fleece so you can build a brand based on substance, not just stickers. No kaam chori (laziness)—just raw manufacturing data.
👉 Sourcing for a 2026 drop? Request a Technical Fabric Audit.
1. The Anatomy of the Knit: Loop vs. Brush
The difference between these two isn't the yarn on the shelf—it's the finishing machine on the floor.
| Technical Metric | French Terry (Unbrushed) | Brushed Fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Knitting Method | 3-End Circular Knit | 3-End Circular Knit + Napping |
| Interior Surface | Visible yarn loops ("Fish Scales") | Fuzzy/Napped nap (Faux-fur feel) |
| Thermal Logic | Wicks moisture / Ventilates heat | Traps air / Insulates body heat |
| Structural Drape | "Hanging" / Fluid / Adaptive | "Structured" / Rigid / Boxy |
| Drying Time | 30% Faster than Fleece | Slower (holds water in nap) |
2. GSM Weight Class Matrix: Finding Your "Drop" Tier
GSM (Grams per Square Meter) defines your retail price point. If your GSM is low, your "Premium" claim is a lie.
| Weight Class | GSM Range | MAVYQ Recommendation | Brand Positioning |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 240–280 | French Terry | Summer Athleisure / Gym Gear |
| Midweight | 300–340 | The "Sweet Spot" | Year-Round Essentials / Merch |
| Heavyweight | 380–420 | Brushed Fleece | Premium Streetwear Drops |
| Ultra-Heavy | 450–550 | Elite Fleece / Double-Face | Luxury "Yeezy-Style" Collectibles |
3. Fabric Composition ROI: Cotton vs. Poly Blends
Don't let "100% Cotton" be your only metric. Understand the technical ROI of the blend.
| Blend Ratio | Profit Margin Potential | Durability | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100% Organic Cotton | High ($80+ Retail) | ★★★ | Eco-Conscious / Luxury Labels |
| 80/20 Cotton-Poly | Maximum (The Standard) | ★★★★★ | Mainstream Streetwear / B2B |
| CVC (60/40) | Mid (Promotional) | ★★★★ | School Leavers / High-Volume Merch |
| Recycled Blend | High (ESG Value) | ★★★★ | Sustainable Tech-wear |
4. Laundering & Durability: Lab-Tested Specs
If your hoodie pills after the first wash, you've failed the "Khan Ethics Test."
| Test Category | MAVYQ Factory Standard | Standard Wholesale Brand | Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pilling Rating | Grade 4.5 (High) | Grade 3.0 (Avg) | Surface stays smooth over time |
| Shrinkage Core | < 2.5% (Heat-Set) | 7% - 10% | Sizes stay true after wash |
| Color Fastness | Level 4.0 (Reactive Dyes) | Level 2.5 (Fades) | Black stays black, not grey |
| Spi (Stitch/Inch) | 10–12 Mandatory | 6–8 (Weak) | Seams won't "blow out" |
5. Decoration Compatibility: The Print Master’s Matrix
Matching your ink to your loops is a science.
| Technique | French Terry | Brushed Fleece | Technical Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screen Print | 5/5 Stars | 4/5 Stars | Terry’s flat face is better for detail |
| Puff/3D Print | 3/5 Stars | 5/5 Stars | Fleece loft supports the expansion |
| Embroidery | 4/5 Stars | 5/5 Stars | Fleece holds dense stitches better |
| DTF (Digital) | 5/5 Stars | 3/5 Stars | Heat-press can flatten fleece nap |
| Chenille Patches | 2/5 Stars | 5/5 Stars | Heavy patches need the heavy fleece base |
6. Seasonality vs. Market Segment (When to Buy)
| Season | Top Seller | Segment | Why? |
|---|---|---|---|
| SS26 (Spring) | 320 GSM French Terry | Activewear / Yoga | Breathability for rising temps |
| AW26 (Autumn) | 380 GSM Brushed Fleece | Student Unions / Merch | Entry-level warmth for campus |
| Deep Winter | 500 GSM Elite Fleece | Hype Drops | Extreme insulation and premium heft |
7. Troubleshooting: Common "Kaam Chori" in Knitting
In Sialkot, some factories take shortcuts. Here is how we stop them.
| Issue | Technical Root Cause | MAVYQ Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| "Bacon Neck" | Using low-tension ribbing | We use 450 GSM reinforced 2x2 rib |
| Lopsided Drape | Uneven knitting tension | Laser-calibrated circular knitting |
| Thin/Flimsy Feel | Stretching the fabric mid-roll | Relaxed-State cutting (No tension) |
| Itchy Interior | Industrial chem residue | Neutral pH wash after dyeing |
8. Sourcing & MOQ Economics: Direct vs. Wholesale
Wholesale blanks are for hobbyists. Factory-direct is for Empire Builders.
| Metric | Wholesale Blanks (US/EU) | MAVYQ Factory Direct |
|---|---|---|
| Unit Cost | $18.00 - $35.00 | $12.50 - $18.50 |
| MOQ | 1 (Inventory Risk Higher) | 50 (Inventory Risk Lower) |
| Custom Labels | No (Relabeling is cheap) | Yes (Woven into the DNA) |
| Custom Patterns | Limited to stock | 100% Your Specs |
9. Product Tier Spec Sheet
| Specification | Tier 1: Gym/Active | Tier 2: Street-Standard | Tier 3: Luxury Heavy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric | French Terry | Brushed Fleece | Heavy Brushed Fleece |
| GSM | 280–320 | 350–380 | 450–520 |
| Fit | Athletic / Regular | Oversized / Boxy | Ultra-Oversized / Structured |
| Recommended Price | $45 - $60 | $65 - $85 | $120 - $180+ |
Technical Care Instructions for Maximum Longevity
- Cold Wash Only (Max 30°C) to protect the cotton fibers from thermal shock.
- Inside Out: Protects the brushed nap (fleece) or the loops (terry) from friction.
- Air Dry Preferred: High-heat dryers kill the "loft" of the fleece and make it feel flat and cheap.
- Reshape While Damp: Crucial for heavyweight 500 GSM items to maintain their structure.
Continue Your Technical Research
Related Products:
- Custom French Terry Joggers (MOQ 50)
- Heavyweight Streetwear Hoodies
- Sustainable Organic Cotton Collection
Related Technical Guides:
- Best Blank Hoodies for Screen Printing: The 2026 Manual
- Complete GSM Guide for Wholesale Apparel
- Wholesale Hoodies Buying Guide 2026: Technical Masterclass
- MOQ Explained: The Economic Reality
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